If you followed my blog just after I began posting my DIY projects, this probably looks familiar-I found this old vanity stool but it was in terrible shape and I showed you how to revamp such items Here a few years ago. With a new look in the bedroom though, the green covering I put on just didn't match anymore.
Recently I purchased 2 table cloths for using as drapes in the bedroom (Tutorial shown Here) and decided to grab a set of the matching napkins while I was at it, certain I'd use them!
First thing I did was remove the temporary covering I put on there a while back, revealing that awful blue velvet you saw in the original tutorial!
Now we're going to proceed in the same way, but this time we're using a NAPKIN that perfectly matches the table cloths hanging for your windows :)
Start by pulling the edges over and attach to the bottom of the seat using a staple gun.
And then again, always doing opposite sides in sets to ensure that the napkin is being equally spread and evenly pulled over the seat.
After you've got all four sides done, pull the corners that are sticking out as far into the middle as you can, again doing the opposite sides in sets.
This is what you'll have when you're done! Run your staple gun around and fasten any lose folds, pulling it taut as you go along.
I chose not to, but this is when you could take a circular piece of wood, or even fabric and lay over all of that messy stapling to give it a more finished look.
Flip that bad boy over and hopefully as a result of the opposite-side-stapling, you'll have a nice smooth and tightly fastened upholster job!
Once finished, reattach the seat to the body of your chair and tada, you're all done!
I've had so many of my friends comment on how they loved that my vanity seat matches my curtains, and then proceed to ask where I bought the drapes and had the cushion done-When I tell them it's all kitchen linens and I spent less than $30 on all of it (and still have 3 napkins left to use!) they're blown away!
Use these napkins to double up and create matching throw pillows for your bed, upholster small furniture (larger pieces could be done with another table cloth!!), or even frame for colorful pieces of matching art :)
First thing you'll do is get however many tiles you'd like coasters. I chose 8 at 67¢ a piece at Lowes, you just can't beat that!
Next thing you're going to do is print out pictures for your tiles-I chose to print out the white too, so that I could at polaroid like details and textures, but you could certainly print out just the picture, center it on the tile, move up (for the classic polaroid base), and then proceed to the next step.
Should you print out the white like I did, use a sharpie to write your captions-this helps give it that fun casual Polaroid feel :)
Next your going to brush mod podge onto your tile, place your image, and hen brush the mod podge over.
Let it dry completely, and repeat twice so that you have a total of three coats.
For those who didn't print out the white-write your captions after the first coat dries, and then proceed as usual.
Next, and this step is very important, you're going to coat your coasters with 2 layers of Acrylic coating-This will provide the water tight seal you'll need!
Next thing you'll do using a roll of self-adhearing cork, cut to size, and stick!
And there you have it! Use family pictures, pictures of your favorite places, your favorite Instagram shots...the possibilities are endless!
Alright so today I'm going to show you all how I made my exposed wood map that I have received so many emails and comments about, finally here it is!
There's going to be a lot of pictures, and you'll have to let me off the hook on these iPhone pics-I usually use my nice camera but when I happened to be making this my Cannon was sleeping :)
First thing's first-get a piece of wood the size that you want your final piece to be. You can certainly get craft board the size in one full piece that you want (which I would recommend) but I happened to have 2 pieces that I screwed together to make the final piece I'd be working on
Also, before you begin to paint, add at least two of these heavy duty frame hangers onto the back of your wood-be sure you're painting on it the correct way after this!
Next your going to cover your surface in craft paper. The purpose of this is so you don't draw directly onto the wood while you're making mistakes and redoing lines-you don't want your wood to have pencil scuffs on it, this will make sense soon...
Does this image throw you back to 2nd grade?
We're going to be using basic Grid-aided-Drawing for this project because it's such a large scale-and because it's a map, it's a very specific, very well-known image that you want to be accurate.
Find a FLAT world map (some images have the countries 'rounded' and so the land masses near the edges are warped as if they were on a globe...) you're going to draw an equally scaled grid onto that. The idea, as we all know, is to match each grid from the print out-to the artwork in front of you-working square by square will result in a WAY more accurate result than without one!
When you finish (the entire map, not shown above) go over it all again in a thick sharpie (yeah, this is a pain, and yeah I watched about 3 movies during this whole process).
Now, using a graphite pencil, or even just a piece of graphite, un-tape your craft paper and rub the graphite along the UNDERSIDE of the map using the sharpie in that's bled through to guide you.
It's going to look about like this when you're done!
Now lay it back on top of your wood and tape it securely all over the edges-you don't want it to shift at all...and now one more time trace over the outline that you've drawn-This will transfer the graphite to the wood leaving you with one clean copy of your map
this is the part of the project when you take a deep breath and say "Oh! I can finally see this coming together!"
Could you skip the whole craft paper transfer step?
Yes, you definitely could. However I would highly recommend it...Yeah, it takes a ton of extra time, and yeah, it kind of feels like a waste, but realize that you'll have to erase all of the grids off of the wood and you likely won't be able to remove it all which will result in some frustration in your finished piece. Short answer: the extra work you put into the craft paper transfer steps will be evident in the quality of your final piece.
Next, go crazy with your paint. Go outside the box and consider all sorts of colors-I chose a traditional blue mainly because I wanted a nice bright pop of color on the wall-but if you have colored walls you could do a white, off white, gray, etc. The paint and wood stain combinations really leave for an amazing amount of combinations so everyone can have something that matches their home!
After using a big brush for the majority of the map, go in close with a small detail brush.
I'd recommend three coats, two coats at the very least for coverage. This is the part where I started to get so super gitty!
Next I laid some paint tape down for some irregularly sized stripes-this step isn't necessary, but I wanted kind of a funky textured overlay (something I do on a lot of my artwork) so I thought I'd show you how I did it for the sake of it :)
Using another colored paint, and a plastic grocery bag, I very carefullyblotted the surface being super careful not to paint the wood that's still exposed
You're almost done! next I ran over the entire piece with a summer oak stain. going over the entire piece aged the blue and sea-foam green I was using.
Cover your whole piece in at least two coats of a poly finish to lock everything in..